Japanese patina for iron

Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby Mac » Sun Dec 20, 2015 3:30 am

Mr. Chris,

I mean it doesn't settle. It just stays as a clay slurry. I even tried a deflocullant to no avail. A couple of teaspoons of iron oxide and it separated within 20 minutes.
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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby Chris A » Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:54 am

Mac, thanks for that; when I used the wrong clay it split ok but had no effect as patination solution.
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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby jhobson » Sun Dec 20, 2015 9:26 am

Thanks for all the info! I was too impatient so I ordered from ebay and clay from Bath potters but minimum was 12Kg - just hope it is the right sort of red clay and that it comes in time for Christmas. I'm not very good with the rust bucket approach so I'm imagining how exciting it will be to unwrap a lump of clay from under the Christmas tree.

I did find Morrocan red clay for sale in very expensive and small packages - for putting on your face. I wouldn't be surprised if I can find some in my daughter's bedroom.
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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby Mac » Sun Dec 20, 2015 7:24 pm

Mr. Chris,

My first, un-separated batch produced a orange/red plum colour. I've put that one away in a cupboard as it was actually quite a nice patination. The final batch produced the desired colour on steel but ' flash plated' the non-ferrous inlays with fine copper, including fine silver and gold. I'm not sure if this is normal but I have suspicions about my ' adjustments' to the recipe.
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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby Ford » Sun Dec 20, 2015 10:44 pm

Mac, that flash plating isn't normal, it can sometimes occur very mildly is the mix is applied while the metal is too cool and then only warmed enough to evaporate it. It really does need a little gentle sizzle....then again, doesn't everything ;-)
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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby Matthias B » Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:20 am

In case you are looking for Salpetre: It seems to be available in aquarium supply shops.

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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby Lee Donaghey » Sat Apr 02, 2016 3:49 am

I've made my patina mix a few months ago and I think it worked well as I have a clear liquid on top and the clay mixture and I think it's matured enough, I'm going to make a test peace from the same steel I used to make the tsuba to see if it will work and the mixture is correct.

Would I need to used a mask when applying this patina, it's probably a yes but just double checking as its the first time using a patina like this using these chemicals.
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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby ps_bond » Fri Sep 30, 2016 7:16 pm

Out of interest, has anyone else using this hit issues with white deposits on the steel? Currently unsure if it's down to my application of the patina or down to my use of hard water. It scrapes off, but if it is limescale there seems to be an awful lot of it. Currently tempted to strip the tsuba again (acid?) and go again.
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Re: Japanese patina for iron

Postby Patrice » Mon Oct 30, 2017 2:23 pm

I have question about this patina process.
What blackish color does it bring?
For the moment I use acid as a vapour, for several deays period, then sanding down to clean and repetiting process.
It brings a quite good result, color is black and I would describe the black as having brownish hue, nothing bluish.
I saw similar color on japanese tsuba with clean patina, edo period, some rust of course, but even original patina has a warmish hue.
But I saw a very different patina on pre-edo tsuba.
I actually have a ko katsuchi, a gomoku heianjo made from a mokko hot stamped tsuba, and what I think to be a original kotosho.
All 3 have rust of course, chocolate color, but all 3 also have remaining blue hue, and the closest thing I know having blue hue like this is heat process on steel, making a kind of corrosion layer (french name is calamine).
The bluish would tend to flake, unlike the standart patination I saw on edo period tsuba.
Were the oldest tsuba examples darkened using heat process only?
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